Pacific Ocean, BC - Nicolas C.
Pulling a surfboard behind me, I started paddling out and began crashing through the waves with the taste of salt in my mouth and blurred vision due to the water. Once I got out far out from the shore, I saw a great wave and started paddling forward to gain speed. As it neared me, I got ready to be carried by the wave.
Then, I felt a thrust forward as the wave started to carry me to the shore. With a rush, I was being propelled very fast and almost felt like I was flying, it was a feeling I have never felt before. I got so excited after the big wave that I went back out as fast as I could, crashing through the waves again. I am so happy and I never want to leave. I kept going further and further and kept getting wave after wave of great surfing.
During one of those times i was being propelled into a big pile of sharp rocks, luckily i was able to avoid that and get back out. But here is where the story gets interesting. While riding a nice and big wave I met up with my friend and a huge wave came from behind us and I ducked down. Since my board was in front of me I hit the sand and then I came back to the surface. It was cold and just as I was coming out I tasted salt since I was in the Atlantic ocean. I went to meet up with my friend pulling my surfboard behind me and they told me I was bleeding on my eyelid.
So we went to the hospital to get stitches. We then returned to the beach where me and my mom went to the other end.I stood on the rocks and even though I was not allowed in the water the waves made me feel so happy.